Bathroom Cabinet

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The Missus was after a new wall cabinet for the bathroom, and as head furniture maker it was down to me to knock one together, pronto! She wanted it to be big enough to take Her "necessary" items and a white finish that still allowed the grain to show was requested. Here's how I made it.

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I bought a pack of 145 x 18mm pine from B+Q. Not my favorite of woods but time was of the essence! Cut the pieces for the sides, top and bottom, ensuring the ends are cut square. The main pieces of this cabinet are going to be joined with sliding dovetails, cut on my new Littlerat router jig.

Mark out the centre line for the sliding dovetail sockets on the top and bottom pieces, on the inside faces. Mark both pieces exactly the same to ensure the cabinet will be square when assembled. Remember to stop the groove 30mm in from the front of both pieces. This will hide the groove from the front, giving a more polished appearance.

Mount the piece in the Jig and line up the centre line with the cutter. Gauge the depth of cut to be approximately two thirds of the thickness of the piece. Feed the router through the piece, remembering not to cut all the way through the front of the pieces.

You could use a straight edge clamped to the work piece with the router if you don't have a 'Rat

Next clamp the side pieces in the jig and, leaving the depth of cut unchanged form a dovetail along either edge of the piece. Do the same at each end of the side pieces. It is worth cutting a test piece beforehand to ensure a good fitting joint.

Test fit the pieces to ensure everything is correct. Measure the exact width between the side for the shelves. Add twice the depth of the dovetail and then you can cut out the timber for the shelves. Run dovetails along the edges of the shelves using the same settings as before. Decide on the height of the shelves, then mark out the side pieces for the sliding dovetail grooves. Cut these as before.

Incidentally, I left the side and shelf pieces oversize in width so I could rip them down later, removing any in-evitable tear out that occurred when routing the dovetails.

Rip down the timber for the door members on the table saw. I joined the corners of the door using bridle joints. Cut these on the table saw using a tenoning jig. Then rout the groove to take the panel on the router table using a 6mm straight cutting bit. Edge joint and then glue up enough timber to make the panel for the door.

When the glue has set on the panel clean up any glue squeeze out and plane the panel down to 12mm in the thickness planer. Trim the panel square and to finished dimensions on the table saw. Then rout the lip around the perimeter of the panel using the router table with a 6mm straight cutting bit. Test the fit in the groove in the door members for a snug fit.

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